Red Redux
Knit scarf pattern for man
The last men's scarf pattern I wrote elicited elicited some envy, so I made another. It's a nice texture that's fast and easy to knit up. The big needles, bulkier yarn and easy to memorize pattern make this a good pattern for beginners.
Red Redux
Materials
3 skeins Plymouth Chunky Merino Superwash Color 18 (100 gr, 109 yards; 100% merino wool)
US size 10 14″ needles
Tapestry needle and scissors
Notes
The scarf is 8" wide, which is pretty wide. If you'd prefer a narrower scarf, you can reduce the width by 4 stitch increments.
K- knit
P – purl
Left Twist - (LT) - knit into the second stitch, then knit into the first, slip both stitches off the needle
mens scarf knitting pattern
Directions
Setup
Cable cast on 34 sts.
Knit three rows.
Pattern
Row 1: K3, *p2, LT* Repeat from * to * until final 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: K3, *p2, k2* Repeat from * to * until final 3 sts, k3.
Rows 3 & 4: Repeat rows 1 & 2
Row 5: K to end
Row 6: K3, p to final 3 sts, k3
Row 7: K3, *LT, p2* Repeat from * to * until final 3 sts, k3.
Row 8: K3, *k2, p2* Repeat from * to * until final 3 sts, k3.
Rows 9 & 10: Repeat rows 7 & 8
Rows 11 & 12: Repeat rows 5 & 6
Repeat pattern until scarf measures 60″, or you run low on yarn.
Knit three rows.
Scarf texture
Men's Scarf Pattern
I like to pretend that I'm a selfish knitter, meaning I only knit for the 'knit-worthy' - those that would both help you move a body and truly understand the craft and time and love that go into hand-knits (and quilts, for that matter). The idea rose as a backlash against that jerk acting like they are doing you a favor by requesting that you make them something and that other jerk that informs you that you can buy socks already made at Walmart. Very helpful.
[img:1]
I lack the discipline to be 'selfish' and instead foist projects that took me days, weeks, months on completely unsuspecting people. The obvious amount of energy that goes into the projects lays there like threat - reject this and you reject me. It's gift-giving emotional one-upping. "Oh, it's no big deal. I just spent 30 hours working on this, stitch by stitch. Thinking about what you'd like. Fretting that you wouldn't want this. Reflecting on how you're important in my life. Nothing major. It's no Best Buy gift card or anything."
It's a bit unfair, really, because even I would rather get the Best Buy gift card. My interest in wearing the things I make dies about four days after I complete them. Perhaps, the truly selfish approach is to leach inspiration from those around me, so I can induldge in a hobby I enjoy while pretending I'm giving a one-of-a-kind masterpiece that will be cherished for decades.
This emotional bombing is not too dissimilar, in fact, from foisting my navel-gazing posts upon readers just coming here for free scarf pattern to knit for a man in their life (or lady, I suppose). So, with only a little more adieu, here we go -
This pattern was the request of an old friend to replace a scarf I'd made him years and years ago, when I'd just started knitting/crocheting. I have always been a little 'meh' about that scarf (though apparently he loved it - always a sign of the knit-worthy) so I jumped on this as an opportunity to redeem myself. His request was "long, dark red and textured". It all fell into place from there. Red yarn that just happened to be named "Pagoda" when he'd just so happened to spend some time in China and a stitch pattern that just so happened to look like roof tops, and here we are - Mao's Little Red Scarf.
This pattern is ridiculously easy and a pretty quick knit for a scarf. You need to know how to knit, purl, cast on and cast off, so it is very beginner friendly.
Mao's Little Red Scarf Pattern
[img:2]
Materials
2 skeins Malabrigo Worsted weight in Pagoda (100 gr, 210 yards; 100% merino wool)
US size 8 14" needles
Tapestry needle and scissors
Stitch marker
Notes
K- knit
P - purl
PU - pick up strand from 2 rows down and slip it over the next live stitch. (You don't work this stitch. It is held into a point by the live stitches)
Directions
Setup
Cable cast on 35 sts.
Knit five rows.
Pattern
- *K3, slip next 5 sts with yarn in front*, repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, k3.
- *K3, p5*, repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, k3.
- K5, *pu, k8, repeat from * to * until last 6 sts, pu, k6.
- *K3, p5*, repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat pattern until scarf measures 60" or length desired.
K 5 rows.
Bind off and weave in ends.
Optional: Ship to Asia.
[img:3]
Pucker Up Cowl Free Knitting Pattern
Materials
1 skein Cascade Yarn Rustic (79% Wool, 21% Linen) 100gr, 196 yds
32" size 7 circular needles
Tapestry needle and scissors
Stitch marker
Notes
Make pucker: Pick up stitch from 10 rows below and knit together with one stitch on the left needle.
Seed stitch: K1, p1 for the whole round. (On the second round, you'll knit into purl stitches, and purl into knit).
Slip marker as you come to it.
Directions
Setup
Cable cast on 125 sts. Join, being sure not to twist.Place marker to note start of round.
Work 1 inch in seed stitch.
Knit 10 rounds.
Pucker Up Cowl Free Knitting Pattern
Materials
1 skein Cascade Yarn Rustic (79% Wool, 21% Linen) 100gr, 196 yds
32" size 7 circular needles
Tapestry needle and scissors
Stitch marker
Notes
Make pucker: Pick up stitch from 10 rows below and knit together with one stitch on the left needle.
Seed stitch: K1, p1 for the whole round. (On the second round, you'll knit into purl stitches, and purl into knit).
Slip marker as you come to it.
Directions
Setup
Cable cast on 125 sts. Join, being sure not to twist.Place marker to note start of round.
Work 1 inch in seed stitch.
Knit 10 rounds.
Little Red Scarf Pattern
Materials
2 skeins Malabrigo Worsted weight in Pagoda (100 gr, 210 yards; 100% merino wool)
US size 8 14" needles
Tapestry needle and scissors
Stitch marker
Notes
K- knit
P - purl
PU - pick up strand from 2 rows down and slip it over the next live stitch. (You don't work this stitch. It is held into a point by the live stitches)
Directions
Setup
Cable cast on 35 sts.
Knit five rows.
Pattern
- *K3, slip next 5 sts with yarn in front*, repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, k3.
- *K3, p5*, repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, k3.
- K5, *pu, k8, repeat from * to * until last 6 sts, pu, k6.
- *K3, p5*, repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, k3.
This video may help explain rows 1 & 3
Repeat pattern until scarf measures 60" or length desired.
K 5 rows.
Bind off and weave in ends.
How to Resize a Quilt Pattern
Following someone elses' patterns will only get you so far in life and quilting. Knowing how to take what someone else has put forward and bend it to your whims opens you up to a ton of potential. Here's my rough guide for how to resize a quilt pattern to the dimensions you want. All you need is a calculator, scrap paper and a smidge of determination.
A note of warning: This won't work with all quilt patterns, but should work for the majority of patchwork designs.
A note of encouragement: Math isn't scary. Your high school math teacher was.
To resize a pattern, you need to decide the following:
- What size do you want the quilt to be?
- Do you want to change the number or the size of the blocks? (changing the number is easier)
What size quilt do you want?
Before you can resize the pattern, you need to know how big you want it to be.
Below are roughly the quilt dimensions I use. No one is going to get bent out of shape if you make the sides a little longer or shorter. And if they do, I recommend smiling and backing away from the crazy slowly and with no sudden movements.
This site has more information about quilt sizes.
Mattress |
Quilt Dimensions (WxL) |
| Crib | 32" x 54" |
| Twin | 68" x 86" |
| Full | 86" x 86" |
| Queen | 90" x 90" |
| King | 100" x 90" |
Fun with Math
The above measurements are for the full quilt top, but usually quilt pattern will have borders. We need to get to the dimensions of the center pieced part by removing the borders. You can change how thick you want the borders to be on the new quilt, but make sure to account for that.
Old Pattern
Width of completed quilt:______ (A)
Length of completed quilt: ______ (B)
Width of all borders: ______ (C)
Width of center block: A-C=______ (D)
Length of center block: B-C=______ (E)
New Pattern
Desired width of completed quilt:______ (a)
Desired length of completed quilt: ______ (b)
Width of all borders: ______ (c)
Width of center block: a-c=______ (d)
Length of center block: b-c=______ (e)
You will need the length and width numbers of the center sections later, so note them down.
Do you want to change the size or the number of blocks?
If you want to change a quilt's size, you can do so by adding additional blocks or by creating the same number of blocks, but adjusting their size. Decide which you'd prefer and do one of the following. I, personally, prefer changing the number of blocks, because it's less complicated to scale the pattern.
I want to change the number of blocks
This is pretty basic math: How long do you need each side to be/size of the blocks.
You should have the length and width of pieced section in fields (d) and (e) above. Divide each by the block size and round to the nearest block. If the pattern doesn't specify the dimensions of the finished block, make one and measure it. Reduce each side by .5" to account for seam allowance.
Example: Adding more blocks to my scrap quilt pattern
Things I can pull from the pattern:
- Each square is 2.5" when finished (they are cut at 3"-.5" seam allowances)
- We need an even number of rows (length), because the pattern has the in color sets
- We can have even or odd in the columns (width)
- There are no borders, so we do not have to account for this.
Assuming I want to make this a twin size quilt, I want the sides to be as close to 68"x86" as possible (referencing the chart above).
Width: 68" (width I want) /2.5" (block size) = 27.2 blocks
Length: 86" (length I want) /2.5" (block size) = 34.4 blocks
Round to the nearest block, and you'd need 27 blocks across by 34 rows (or seventeen 2-row color stripes) long
I want to make the same number of different sized blocks
Scaling the blocks works if you want the quilt to be the same proportions, but a different size. It would not work to scale a twin size quilt to queen, because a queen is square, whereas a twin is rectangular.
To resize the blocks, you need to resize each piece's calculations. You can end up with some off measurements (5/8th of an inch instead of 1/4th), so I only recommend this if you're comfortable with math and good at solving issues as they arise. They will.
In order to do this, you need to determine how much larger you want the pieced center to be as a percentage, and then cut each piece that percentage larger, excluding the seam allowance.
Example: Enlarging the blocks in my scrap quilt pattern
This quilt is 36"x48". Let's say I want it to be 54" wide.
First, determine the percent increase: (new dimension)/(old dimension) 36/54=1.5 or 150% It needs to be the same percentage in both directions. Therefore the length will be 48"x1.5= 72" for a finished dimension of 54"x72".
Next, resizing the blocks: This pattern is actually easy, because there isn't much piecing. You will remove the seam allowance (.5") from the size of block the pattern tells you to cut, multiply that by the percentage you want to change the block's size, and add back in the seam allowance.
((pattern's sizes to cut - .5" seam allowance) x percentage increase) + .5" seam allowance
Or, using the pattern's numbers, 3" cut blocks - .5" for seam allowance = 2.5" x 1.5 (the increase) = 3.75" (new finished block size) + .5" seam allowance = 4.25"
You'd cut 4.25" squares, and the blocks will be 3.75" after being sewn. You'd use the same number of blocks and placement as the pattern originally called for.
Get more fabric
Determining how much more fabric you need for the resized quilt is a tutorial in itself. I'm not going to go into it here, but here are some resources:
Triple check your math before cutting
No, really. Check it. Maybe a fourth time for luck.
Questions? Anything I have wrong?
Following someone elses' patterns will only get you so far in life and quilting. Knowing how to take what someone else has put forward and bend it to your whims opens you up to a ton of potential. Here's my rough guide for how to resize a quilt pattern to the dimensions you want. All you need is a calculator, scrap paper and a smidge of determination. A note of warning: This won't work with all quilt patterns, but should work for the majority of patchwork designs.
A note of encouragement: Math isn't scary. Your high school math teacher was.
To resize a pattern, you need to decide the following:
- What size do you want the quilt to be?
- Do you want to change the number or the size of the blocks? (changing the number is easier)
What size quilt do you want?
Before you can resize the pattern, you need to know how big you want it to be.
Below are roughly the quilt dimensions I use. No one is going to get bent out of shape if you make the sides a little longer or shorter. And if they do, I recommend smiling and backing away from the crazy slowly and with no sudden movements.
This site has more information about quilt sizes.
Mattress |
Quilt Dimensions (WxL) |
| Crib | 32" x 54" |
| Twin | 68" x 86" |
| Full | 86" x 86" |
| Queen | 90" x 90" |
| King | 100" x 90" |
Fun with Math
The above measurements are for the full quilt top, but usually quilt pattern will have borders. We need to get to the dimensions of the center pieced part by removing the borders. You can change how thick you want the borders to be on the new quilt, but make sure to account for that.
Old Pattern
Width of completed quilt:______ (A) Length of completed quilt: ______ (B)
Width of all borders: ______ (C)
Width of center block: A-C=______ (D)
Length of center block: B-C=______ (E)
New Pattern
Desired width of completed quilt:______ (a) Desired length of completed quilt: ______ (b)
Width of all borders: ______ (c)
Width of center block: a-c=______ (d)
Length of center block: b-c=______ (e)
You will need the length and width numbers of the center sections later, so note them down.
Do you want to change the size or the number of blocks?
If you want to change a quilt's size, you can do so by adding additional blocks or by creating the same number of blocks, but adjusting their size. Decide which you'd prefer and do one of the following. I, personally, prefer changing the number of blocks, because it's less complicated to scale the pattern.
I want to change the number of blocks
This is pretty basic math: How long do you need each side to be/size of the blocks.
You should have the length and width of pieced section in fields (d) and (e) above. Divide each by the block size and round to the nearest block. If the pattern doesn't specify the dimensions of the finished block, make one and measure it. Reduce each side by .5" to account for seam allowance.
Example: Adding more blocks to my scrap quilt pattern
Things I can pull from the pattern:
- Each square is 2.5" when finished (they are cut at 3"-.5" seam allowances)
- We need an even number of rows (length), because the pattern has the in color sets
- We can have even or odd in the columns (width)
- There are no borders, so we do not have to account for this.
Assuming I want to make this a twin size quilt, I want the sides to be as close to 68"x86" as possible (referencing the chart above).
Width: 68" (width I want) /2.5" (block size) = 27.2 blocks
Length: 86" (length I want) /2.5" (block size) = 34.4 blocks
Round to the nearest block, and you'd need 27 blocks across by 34 rows (or seventeen 2-row color stripes) long
I want to make the same number of different sized blocks
Scaling the blocks works if you want the quilt to be the same proportions, but a different size. It would not work to scale a twin size quilt to queen, because a queen is square, whereas a twin is rectangular.
To resize the blocks, you need to resize each piece's calculations. You can end up with some off measurements (5/8th of an inch instead of 1/4th), so I only recommend this if you're comfortable with math and good at solving issues as they arise. They will.
In order to do this, you need to determine how much larger you want the pieced center to be as a percentage, and then cut each piece that percentage larger, excluding the seam allowance.
Example: Enlarging the blocks in my scrap quilt pattern
This quilt is 36"x48". Let's say I want it to be 54" wide.
First, determine the percent increase: (new dimension)/(old dimension) 36/54=1.5 or 150% It needs to be the same percentage in both directions. Therefore the length will be 48"x1.5= 72" for a finished dimension of 54"x72".
Next, resizing the blocks: This pattern is actually easy, because there isn't much piecing. You will remove the seam allowance (.5") from the size of block the pattern tells you to cut, multiply that by the percentage you want to change the block's size, and add back in the seam allowance.
((pattern's sizes to cut - .5" seam allowance) x percentage increase) + .5" seam allowance
Or, using the pattern's numbers, 3" cut blocks - .5" for seam allowance = 2.5" x 1.5 (the increase) = 3.75" (new finished block size) + .5" seam allowance = 4.25"
You'd cut 4.25" squares, and the blocks will be 3.75" after being sewn. You'd use the same number of blocks and placement as the pattern originally called for.
Get more fabric
Determining how much more fabric you need for the resized quilt is a tutorial in itself. I'm not going to go into it here, but here are some resources:
Triple check your math before cutting
No, really. Check it. Maybe a fourth time for luck.
Questions? Anything I have wrong?
Lotus Baby Blanket Pattern
I need to get rid of yarn.
A lot of it is left overs from other projects - too much to toss, too little to make anything - or stuff that has been given to me. Nice and thank you, but not what I'd have bought. Also, yarn follows the same rules as Chinese food - left overs are either consumed in the first two days, or you lose the ability to see them. The get pushed further and further to the back, until in a flurry of Spring cleaning you come across a container you're afraid to open.
It's making me crazy. I feel guilty buying new stuff I'd actually use because I have approximately 8 sheep in my closet. And it just sits there. Staring.
So I made a blanket to cover my shame.
[img:1]
This yarn was a lovely cotton/alpaca blend that someone cruely dyed the color of blanched salmon. I believe my mother had a sweater in exactly this color somewhere around 1993. I used it to make a baby blanket. Being pre-verbal, babies' opinions on color pallet are easily ignored. But to appease their now-talking parents, I plan to dye it 'flamingo'.
[img:2]
This blanket is a pretty quick knit. All the confusing stuff is right at the beginning, so starting over/frogging (not that anyone ever does...) isn't too painful. The petal pattern is easily memorized and doesn't take much concentration after you figure it out. This probably isn't the best pattern for your first lace project, it would make a great second one.
Lotus Knit Baby Blanket Pattern
Size
32"x32"
Gauge
18 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
Materials
- 300 grams (3 skeins) Cascasde 220 wool or similar worsted weight yarn (100 grams, 220 yards)
- Size 8 (5 mm) 32” circular needles
- Size 8 (5mm) 60" circular needles
- Darning needle
Abbreviations
- K – Knit
- P – Purl
- K2tog – knit 2 together
- Ssk – Slip 2 stitches knitwise and k2tog
- Sl, k2tog, psso – Slip on st to the right needle, k2tog, pass slip stitch over
- K1f&b - Knit 1 in the front and back of the stitch
- K tbl - Knit through back loop
- YO - Yarn over
- PM - Place marker
Notes
Throughout pattern, slip markers as you come to them.
Switch to longer circulars when needed.
This blanket is knit using the magic loop method.
Directions
Cast on 8 sts using the disappearing loop method. Pull the cable through so you have 4 sts on each needle.
Center Flower
Work the following pattern four times on each round.Place a marker between each repeat.
- K, 2yo, k
- K2, p, k
- K2, yo, k2
- K2, k1f&b, k2
- K2, yo, k2, yo, k2
- Knit
- K2, yo, k4, yo, k2
- K3, k2tog, ssk, k3
- Yo, k2, yo, k2, yo, k2, yo, k2
- K3, k2tog, k1, k1f&b, k1, ssk, k2
- K tbl, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo
- K4, yo, k2tog, k2tog, yo, ssk, ssk, yo, k3
- K tbl, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2, k1f&b, k2, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo
- K8, yo, ssk, ssk, k2tog, k2tog, yo, k5
- K tbl, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1, sl1, k3tog, psso, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo
- Knit
- K tbl, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo
- Knit
- K tbl, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5, yo
- Knit
- K tbl, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7, yo
- Knit
- K tbl, yo, k9, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k9, yo
- Knit
- K tbl, yo, k11, yo, ssk, k10, yo
- Knit
Petals
Work the following pattern between each marker.
- Ktbl, *yo, k tbl, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 1 st before marker, yo, k tbl, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
- Ktbl, *yo, k3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 3 sts before marker, yo, k3, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
- Ktbl, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7* Repeat from * to * until 5 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
- Ktbl, *yo, k5, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 5 sts before marker, yo, k5, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
- Ktbl, *yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 7 sts before marker, yo, k7, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
- Ktbl, *yo, k9, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso* Repeat from * to * until 9 sts before marker, yo, k9, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
- Ktbl, yo, k11, *yo, ssk, k10* Repeat from * to * until marker, yo, slip marker.
- Knit
Repeat the petals pattern 4 more times, for a total of 5 repeats.
Outer Edge
- Increase round: Ktbl, yo, k until marker, yo, slip marker.
- Even round: Knit
Alternate increase and even round for ten total rounds. Work 5 additional rounds in seed stitch.
- Seed stitch increase: Ktbl, yo, *k, p* repeat from * to * until marker, yo, slip marker.
- Seed stitch even round: P, k around.
Cast off loosely in pattern.
[Img:3]
Edited 3/16/2011 - Fixed error in line 7 and 13 of flower pattern.
Edited 3/17/2011 - Couple more.
Edited 3/20 - Dyed.
Edited 3/27 - Couple tweaks
Edited 3/31 - Row 15 will be the death of me.
[img:4]
I need to get rid of yarn. A lot of it is left overs from other projects - too much to toss, too little to make anything - or stuff that has been given to me. Nice and thank you, but not what I'd have bought.
It's making me crazy. I feel guilty buying new stuff I'd actually use because I have approximately 8 sheep in my closet. And it just sits there. Staring.
So I made a blanket to cover my shame.
Knit baby blanket
This yarn was a lovely cotton/alpaca blend that someone cruely dyed the color of blanched salmon. I plan to dye it 'flamingo'.
baby blanket pattern
This blanket is a pretty quick knit. All the confusing stuff is right at the beginning, so starting over/frogging (not that anyone ever does...) isn't too painful. The petal pattern is easily memorized and doesn't take much concentration after you figure it out. This probably isn't the best pattern for your first lace project, it would make a great second one.
Lotus Knit Baby Blanket Pattern
Size
32"x32"
Gauge
18 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
Materials
300 grams (3 skeins) Cascasde 220 wool or similar worsted weight yarn (100 grams, 220 yards)
Size 8 (5 mm) 32” circular needles
Size 8 (5mm) 60" circular needles
Darning needle
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
Ssk – Slip 2 stitches knitwise and k2tog
Sl, k2tog, psso – Slip on st to the right needle, k2tog, pass slip stitch over
K1f&b - Knit 1 in the front and back of the stitch
K tbl - Knit through back loop
YO - Yarn over
PM - Place marker
Notes
Throughout pattern, slip markers as you come to them.
Switch to longer circulars when needed.
This blanket is knit using the magic loop method, (video)
Some knitters have reported the center portion of the flower puckering up a bit. To avoid this, you may want to knit the "Center Flower" section on smaller needles.
A knitter created a video showing how to knit the first 4 rows on DPNs.
Directions
Cast on 8 sts using the disappearing loop method (another tutorial!). Pull the cable through so you have 4 sts on each needle.
Center Flower
Work the following instructions four times on each round. If you choose to use DPNs, you would work the instructions below once on each of the four needles. Using the magic loop, as I did, I recommend placing a marker to designate where the pattern ends.
K, 2yo, k
K2, p, k
K2, yo, k2
K2, k1f&b, k2
K2, yo, k2, yo, k2
Knit
K2, yo, k4, yo, k2
K3, k2tog, ssk, k3
Yo, k2, yo, k2, yo, k2, yo, k2
K3, k2tog, k1, k1f&b, k1, ssk, k2
K tbl, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo
K4, yo, k2tog, k2tog, yo, ssk, ssk, yo, k3
K tbl, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2, k1f&b, k2, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo
K8, yo, ssk, ssk, k2tog, k2tog, yo, k5
K tbl, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1, sl1, k3tog, psso, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo
Knit
K tbl, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo
Knit
K tbl, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5, yo
Knit
K tbl, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7, yo
Knit
K tbl, yo, k9, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k9, yo
Knit
K tbl, yo, k11, yo, ssk, k10, yo
Knit
Petals
Work the following pattern between each marker.
Ktbl, *yo, k tbl, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 1 st before marker, yo, k tbl, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Ktbl, *yo, k3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 3 sts before marker, yo, k3, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Ktbl, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7* Repeat from * to * until 5 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Ktbl, *yo, k5, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 5 sts before marker, yo, k5, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Ktbl, *yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog* Repeat from * to * until 7 sts before marker, yo, k7, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Ktbl, *yo, k9, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso* Repeat from * to * until 9 sts before marker, yo, k9, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Ktbl, yo, k11, *yo, ssk, k10* Repeat from * to * until marker, yo, slip marker.
Knit
Repeat the petals pattern 4 more times, for a total of 5 repeats.
Outer Edge
Increase round: Ktbl, yo, k until marker, yo, slip marker.
Even round: Knit
Alternate increase and even round for ten total rounds. Work 5 additional rounds in seed stitch.
Seed stitch increase: Ktbl, yo, *k, p* repeat from * to * until marker, yo, slip marker.
Seed stitch even round: P, k around.
Cast off loosely in pattern.
overview of blanket
Edited 3/16/2011 - Fixed error in line 7 and 13 of flower pattern. Edited 3/17/2011 - Couple more. Edited 3/20 - Dyed. Edited 3/27 - Couple tweaks Edited 3/31 - Row 15 will be the death of me.
Closeup of baby blanket
Men's Cabled Hat Pattern
With how brutally cold it's been, it's depressing to think we are just a month into winter. It seems like Kansasians have given into the permanence of the cold. Random comments about how 'nice' it is outside can be overheard when the thermometer inches above the 20 degree mark. It's possible the lack of sun has made us delirious.
Needless to say, it is time for heavy duty knit ware. Lace and silk are nice and all, but these balmy 5 degree days demand wool and cables. Designed the below for the fella. I wanted a guy-friendly design that wasn't just ribbing and a rolled up cuff so he can double up on his ears. I really love the outcome, and it was a really fast knit (2 days of fairly regular knitting).
[img:1]
Men's Cabled Hat Pattern
Size
Adult Women's/Men's
Gauge
18 sts = 4 inches in stockinette
Materials
- One skein (4 oz, 190 yards) Lamb's Pride Worsted weight. 85% wool, 15% mohair
- Size 8 (5 mm) 32” circular needles for magic loop method or DPNs, depending upon preference
- Cable Needle
- Darning needle
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
Ssk – Slip 2 stitches knitwise and k2tog
Sl, k2tog, psso – Slip on st to the right needle, k2tog, pass slip stitch over
CL – Cable Left – Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to front, k3 from left needle, k3 from cable needle
CR – Cable Right – Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to back, k3 from left needle, k3 from cable needle
Directions
Cable cast on 80 (90) sts
Ribbing
*P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k3, p3, k3* Repeat from * to * around until ribbing measures 2.5 (3) inches.
Body of Hat
Work the following pattern three times
-
Work 6 (7) rows of *P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k9* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
-
*P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), CR, k3* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
-
Work 6 (7) rows of *P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k9* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
-
*P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k3, CL* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
Men's only. Work the final round of the last repeat as:
-
*P2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2, k3, CL* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
[img:2]
Crown
*P2, k3, p2, ssk, k5, k2tog* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2, k3, p2, k7* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2, k3, p2, ssk, k3, k2tog* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2, k3, p2, k5* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, k5* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, k5* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, ssk, k1, k2tog* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, k1* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, k1* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k1* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
Ssk around.
Cut yarn and pull end through remaining sts.
Weave in ends.
[img:3]
Edited 1/24/11 to correct ribbing and final round before crown.
Edited 3/28/11 to change k3 to k1 on 7th round of crown.
Edited 4/11 to add note about magic loop
With how brutally cold it's been, it's depressing to think we are just a month into winter. It seems like Kansasians have given into the permanence of the cold. Random comments about how 'nice' it is outside can be overheard when the thermometer inches above the 20 degree mark. It's possible the lack of sun has made us delirious. Needless to say, it is time for heavy duty knit ware. Lace and silk are nice and all, but these balmy 5 degree days demand wool and cables. Designed the below for the fella. I wanted a guy-friendly design that wasn't just ribbing and a rolled up cuff so he can double up on his ears. I really love the outcome, and it was a really fast knit (2 days of fairly regular knitting).
knit hat pattern for men
A Hat Fit For a Fella Pattern
Size
Adult Women's/Men's
Gauge
18 sts = 4 inches in stockinette
Materials
One skein (4 oz, 190 yards) Lamb's Pride Worsted weight. 85% wool, 15% mohair
Size 8 (5 mm) 32” circular needles for magic loop method or DPNs, depending upon preference
Cable Needle
Darning needle
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
Ssk – Slip 2 stitches knitwise and knit those two sts tog
Sl, k2tog, psso – Slip on st to the right needle, k2tog, pass slip stitch over
CL – Cable Left – Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to front, k3 from left needle, k3 from cable needle
CR – Cable Right – Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to back, k3 from left needle, k3 from cable needle
Directions
Cable cast on 80 (90) sts
Ribbing
*P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k3, p3, k3* Repeat from * to * around until ribbing measures 2.5 (3) inches.
Body of Hat
Work the following pattern three times
Work 6 (7) rows of *P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k9* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), CR, k3* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
Work 6 (7) rows of *P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k9* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2 (3), k3, p2 (3), k3, CL* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
Men's only. Replace the final round of the third repeat with:
*P2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2, k3, CL* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
Please note - this line has been discussed multiple times in the comments. Please read those if you have questions. I am unable to provide more assistance on this free pattern, so if you have more questions, I recommend the forums at Ravelry.com.
Cable hat for men
Crown
*P2, k3, p2, ssk, k5, k2tog* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2, k3, p2, k7* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2, k3, p2, ssk, k3, k2tog* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P2, k3, p2, k5* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, k5* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, k5* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, ssk, k1, k2tog* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k3, p1, k1* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, k1* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
*P1, k1* Repeat from * to * to end of round.
Ssk around.
Cut yarn and pull end through remaining sts.
Weave in ends.
free knit hat pattern
Edited 1/24/11 to correct ribbing and final round before crown. Edited 3/28/11 to change k3 to k1 on 7th round of crown. Edited 4/11 to add note about magic loop